Golf III/Jetta III ‘93-’99 & Cabriolet ‘95-’02

RADIATOR HOSES

Hoses have certainly changed since the first Rabbits started rolling off the assembly line. The number of individual hoses has gone down, but the hoses that are left are much more complex, sprouting extra “arms” branching off the main hose. Along with complexity comes cost and these hoses are no exception. Hoses do deteriorate with age, so if one fails, you are generally better off replacing all of them at once, as others will usually fail soon after. We offer complete hose kits at substantial savings over the individual price. VR6 hoses are also available individually.

HOSE KITS

2.0 L 4 cylinder ‘93-99.5

     Man. trans. #SN18314 . . .$139.95

     Auto. trans. #SN18796 . . .$164.95

1.9 L TDI ‘97-99.5

     Manual trans. #SN18799 . . .$134.95

VR6‘93-96

     Man. trans. #SN18800 . . .$189.95

     Auto. trans. #SN18802 . . .$349.95

VR6‘97-99.5

     Man. trans. #SN18801 . . .$279.95

     Auto. trans. #SN18803 . . .$349.95

VR6 INDIVIDUAL HOSES

1. Upper radiator hose

     Man. trans. #SN15646 . . .$69.95

     Auto. trans. #SN15647 . . .$129.95

2. Lower radiator hose

     Manual trans. #SN15638 . . .$29.95

     Automatic trans. #SN15639 . . .$55.00

3. Auxiliary water pump to exp. tank to thermostat housing

Manual transmission

     ‘93-96 #SN18793 . . .$44.95

     ‘97-99.5 #SN18794 . . .N/A

Automatic transmission

     ‘93-96 #SN14752 . . .$145.95

     ‘97-99.5 #SN15643 . . .$145.95

4. Aux. water pump to heater core

     All ‘93-99.5 #SN15644 . . .$30.00

5. Throttle valve housing to heater core to cylinder head

     All ‘93-99.5 #SN15648 . . .$49.94

6. Oil cooler to block

     All ‘93-99.5 #SN15641 . . .$12.75

7. Oil cooler to water pump

     All ‘93-99.5 #SN15640 . . .$9.95

PREMIUM PENTOSIN ANTIFREEZE

Volkswagen specifies phosphate/silicate-free antifreeze in all their vehicles. Most “national brand” antifreeze does not meet VW’s specification. German Pentosin antifreeze exceeds all of Volkswagen’s requirements and is absolutely neutral to       metals, rubber parts and sealing materials. Available in G11 (green) formulation, used until mid-1997 and G12 (red) formulation used after mid ‘97. G11 and G12 cannot be mixed, so verify which yours is filled with before calling. Mix 50/50 with distilled water for best results.

G11 (All VW pre-1997) 1.5 liter bottle (Green) #SN18727 . . .$12.95

G12 (All VW 1998 and later) 1.5 liter bottle (Purple/Red) #SN18726 . . .$13.95

IRREGULAR IDLE?

Is your engine loping?  Speed going up and down, 800-2000-800RPM??  Then read on......

Idle speed is controlled by the idle speed stabilizer valve, an electronically-controlled rotary valve which is really just a fancy bypass of the throttle body. When the fuel injection “brain” receives a signal that the idle is too high or too low, it makes fine adjustments using the idle speed stabilizer. Over time, the valve gums up, causing it to respond too slowly which causes the brain to “over shoot” the adjustment. This makes the idle hunt up and down. The valve can also stick, causing a consistently low or high idle. If you’re having idle problems, there’s a good chance it’s your idle speed stabilizer. It’s an easy fix - remove two hoses, one bracket and one electrical plug and it’s out. An easy 15 minute job!

IDLE SPEED STABILIZER

2.0 L 4 cylinder

New #SN16198 . . . . . .$229.95

Recycled #SN38710 . . . . . . . . .$115.00

VR6

New #SN14060 . . .. . .$269.95

Rebuilt #SN37349 . . . . . . . . .$229.95

Recycled #SN9235 . . . . . . . . .$80.00

COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSORS

Any number of “poor running” conditions can be caused by a bad coolant temp sensor. Sometimes it’s easy to diagnose - if  the car runs poorly when cold but fine when it’s warm (or vice versa) it’s probably the temp sensor. Likewise, if your temperature gauge on the dash stops working, but everything else works fine, it’s probably a sensor. Sometimes, though, it’s harder to diagnose - the car won’t start, poor fuel economy, rough running - these can all be caused by a bad temp sensor. Temp sensors are held in by a single clip and are easy to replace. Since all the sensors are the same size, the easiest way to identify the sensor when ordering is to pull the plug and note the color of the sensor and the number of pins on the connector and then match it up from the list below!

Color______Pins______Part#_____Price

Grey & white  2  #SN13315 . . .$15.60

Black & yellow  4  #SN16802 . . .$29.99

Blue & white  4 #SN18804 . . .$24.95

Blue  2  #SN13313 . . .$19.95

Black and white  2  #SN18805 . . .$29.95

Brown  4  #SN18806 . . .$19.95

Black & green  2  #SN18807 . . .$24.95

Don’t forget clips and gaskets

Clips #SN16285 . . .$1.68

Gasket-O-Ring #SN18044 . . .$2.48

FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR

A properly working fuel pressure regulator is very important. When the fuel injection brain is calculating how long the injector should spray for, the calculation is made based on correct fuel pressure. If the fuel pressure is too low, not enough fuel will be injected (too lean). If the fuel pressure is too high, too much fuel will be injected (too rich). Either way, your car will not run correctly! Don’t worry, if your regulator tests bad it’s easy to replace. It’s held in the fuel rail by a single retaining clip. Just remove the clip and the vacuum hose.

2.0 L 4 cylinder ‘93-02, VR6 ‘96-99.5

     New #SN13409 . . .$89.95

     Recycled #SN38995 . . .$45.00

VR6 ‘92-95

     New #SN18808 . . .$89.95

     Recycled #SN38996 . . .$45.00

TECH TIP: Whenever you’ve got a fitting apart that uses O-rings to seal, replace the O-rings! O-rings “flatten out” over time - and that’s when leaks start to happen. Replacing them while you’ve already got the fitting apart (before they start to leak) will save you time and headaches!