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FUEL PUMPS

If you suspect your fuel pump is bad, all you need to do to test it is to use the VW Wrench. Turn the engine over turning the generator, and watch to see if fuel pumps out of the fuel pump line which you disconnect. If the car doesn't want to run, and you have to pump the accelerator pedal a lot to keep it running, it's probably the accelerator pump on the carburetor and not the pump. Rebuilding fuel pumps is a thing of the past since the kits cost as much as a new pump.

Fuel pump push rods come in different lengths. The push rod must match the pump. If it's too long it will break the pump, and if it’s too short it won't pump. Before bolting the new pump down, hold it down in place and turn over the engine by hand, and check for action.

Fuel Pump all Beetle type engines

1200-1600 with generator to '70-73

#SN1376 . . . . . . . .$24.95

Fuel Pump all Beetle '73-1/2 up

(all with alternators)

#SN1377 . . . . . . . .$26.50

Fuel Pump ceramic stand ‘61-’74

#SN9472 . . . . . . . .$3.95

Fuel Pump push rod

#SN30365 (short) . . . . . .$5.00

#SN4000 (long) . . . . . . . .$5.00

In-line fuel filter (Carbureted)

#SN1633 . . . . . . . .$2.95

Fuel Injected Filter, Bug, Bus ‘75-79

#SN1437 . . . . . . . .$5.95

Electric fuel Pumps, all fuel injected Bugs '75-79, Bus '75-79, Van '80-83

New, Bosch:

#SN03439 . . . . . . . .$249.95

Re-man. (limited availability):

#SN13545 . . . . . . . .$169.95

Recycled:

#SN33181 . . . . . . . .$80.00

Others Available . . . . . . . .Call

If you're ordering fuel system parts, why not pick up an in-line fuel filter, some clamps, and fuel line while you're at it?

Tech Tip: Next to an oil change, valve adjustment is the most important maintenance procedure for a VW. Valve adjustments must be performed religiously for your VW to remain cheap transportation. PartsPlace recommends you do your own valve adjustments with the engine "dead cold" and at intervals of six thousand miles (with every other oil change). For instructions and more information see either a Haynes manual or come by Parts Place and we will give you all the details.

Approach engine work with a lot of thought. How do you know when you need new parts or which parts? Two tests are good indicators: compression test and oil pressure; check with a gauge. The oil pressure can be checked easiest by using a gauge that will adapt to the oil pressure sender on the engine. Take the sender out, screw the gauge in, and turn the engine over. If the gauge is above 28# at about 2500 RPM with 30 weight oil fully warmed up then you're all set. The bottom end of the engine (crankshaft, bearing, and etc.) can be assumed all right. If not you need to tear the lower end of the engine apart.

A pair of valve cover gaskets is necessary every time you adjust the valves.

VALVE COVER GASKET:

Pair of 2

#SN20086 . . . . . . . .$3.89

Bus, Vanagon PAIR

#SN20085 . . . . . . . .$3.40

The most common oil leak on a Beetle® engine is from the Push Rod Tubes The tube is just a thin piece of metal with a spring bellows on each end. The bellows get weak and don't hold the seals tight, consequently the tubes leak. Always replace the tubes when rebuilding an engine.

Push Rod Tube 1300 thru 1600

#SN1273 . . . . . . . .$3.49

Push Rod Tube 1200

#SN1272 . . . . . . . .$3.49

We sell adjustable push rod tubes which are spring loaded and can be installed without moving the heads. They come complete with seals.

#SN1270 . . . . . . . .$8.95 ea.

Set of (5) oil change gaskets

Bug, Bus to 71, III, Thing, Ghia

#SN12433 (5) . . . . . . . .$4.75

Bus, IV, Vanagon 72-83

#SN1525 (5) . . . . . . . .$6.90

Heater Tin for your Beetle engine!

This 3-piece kit is just like the original. Replace your rusted or dented pieces.

3-Piece Engine Tin Kit

#SN1576 . . . . . . . .$49.95

Upper Cylinder Head Covers

Replace dented or rusted pieces with these brand new engine shrouds. Price is per pair.

#SN3832 (Chrome) . . . . . . $34.95

#SN3833 (Black) . . . . . . . .$33.95

Lower Your Engine’s Temperature by 40 Degrees!

Engine Compartment Seals

These seals separate the space from which the engine draws its air. Air cooled engines cool with air. You knew that, huh. Well you probably can figure out that cool air cools better than hot air. Well if you're that smart, how come the engine seal in your car is half gone?

If you do not understand, here's how it works. Picture the engine compartment as a box with the engine closed 1/2 in and 1/2 out of the bottom. When the cooling fan starts to run, it draws air from the box (a vacuum) and the fan pulls the air into the engine shroud over the heads and dumps it out underneath. This used air is hot.

The vacuum created in the box (engine compartment) tries to pull in fresh air from wherever it can get it. Usually it can get cool air from the fresh air intakes, or if there is no seal, it will pull the old used hot air up from under the engine and try to cool itself with hot air. Without a seal, it will continue to do this until it cooks and finally blows itself up.

Replace your engine seals! A customer with an oil temperature gauge reports a drop in oil temperature of 40 degrees F when a new seal was used on his Beetle. This makes a lot of difference in an air-cooled engine!

Firewall vertical seal, Bug

‘49-79 #SN2709 . . . . . . . .$8.95

Rear engine horizontal seal, Bug

‘68-74 #SN2708 . . . . . . . .$16.95

Complete engine foam seal

Bus®, '72-79, Vanagon '80-83

#SN2705 . . . . . . . .$49.95

The above seal will work on a Vanagon but the below is more correct but more money.

#SN5207 . . . . . . . .$169.95