STRUTS

No Mystery... You Can Do-It-Yourself

A very common repair for all Rabbits, Golfs’ Jettas and Sciroccos is replacing the front struts, springs and/ or bearings.

FRONT STRUTS

Strut Assemblies

Completely New--Best Buy!!

The assemblies include a new casing, new German  or OEM strut bearing and new OEM  SACHS strut assemblies. These struts are the same units the dealer sells in a different box! New Firmer springs (USA Made), new rubber snubber and cap, all completely assembled. Sold exchange. (We save you money by using your core to build "rebuilt" assemblies for others).

Rabbit, Scirocco, Jettas thru ‘84 These are NEW!!!

#SN13691 . . . . . . . .$279.95/pair

Rabbit pick-up!

Same as above but super heavy duty

#SN1983 . . . . . . . . $299.95/pair

Recycled Assemblies

If you are super economy minded and only want to get a good pair of strut assemblies taken off a running test driven car. These are disassembled, struts checked, bearing repacked, new snubbers added, installed and reassembled. Not cleaned and painted!

Rabbit/Jetta ‘77-84 Front

     #SN1985 . . . . . .$99.95 pair

Golf/Jetta ‘85-92 Front

     #SN9092 . . . . . .$99.95 pair

Golf/Jetta ‘93-96 4 CYL. Front

     #SN39878 . . . . .$99.99 pair

Rear Assemblies

Rabbit/Jetta '75-84, Scirocco® thru ‘88, Cabriolet thru ’93

#SN9115 .. . . . . . . . . . $99.95/pair

Golf/Jetta '85-92

#SN9079 . . . . . . . . . . .$79.99/pair

Golf/Jetta '93-99.5 Scirocco thru ‘88, Cabriolet thru ’93

#SN39905 . . . . . . . . . $99.95/pair

If you want to do the labor yourself, we offer a complete strut rebuilding kit, including two new springs, two new OEM BOGE designed  inserts, two new OEM or German strut bearings, and two new rubber snubbers. This kit is not assembled and the below price is only good if ordered by this part number. Price is per pair only.

All Rabbit, Jetta, Scirocco ‘75-84 Front

Strut kit with external threads on strut casing.

#SN1996 . . . . . . . . .$169.95

Strut kit with internal threads on strut casing. (USA built Rabbit only)

#SN3947 . . . . . . . . . $169.95

Internal thread inserts are used only on Rabbits made in USA 81-83 -Check, someone may have converted your car to external.  (See picture, page 26)

For Rear, ’75-84, Shocks & Springs Only

#SN12775 . . . . . . . . . $129.95

All Golf/Jetta ‘85-92 Front with two new OEM BOGE designed inserts and two new strut bearings (OEM or German) new snubbers and heavy duty USA made springs

#SN4391 . . . . . . . . . $179.95

For Rear, ‘85-92, Shocks & Springs Only

#SN11768 . . . . . . . . . $129.95

Golf/Jetta 4 cylinder ‘93-96

Front  #SN18830 . . . . .$219.95

Rear  #SN19960 . . . . .$129.95

The above kits must be ordered by the kit.

No deletions allowed.

Warranties

OTCRO (Over-the-Counter Replacement Only). Our 100% new strut assemblies have a 24-month Parts Place limited OTCRO Guarantee.*  Our recycled strut assemblies have a 6-month limited OTCRO Guarantee.*  What this means is that if a part is defective, we will replace it, over the counter, not installed, at no charge to you, the customer, except for regular shipping charges.

Don't Be Suckered In!

"Discount" muffler shops advertise "new struts" for $149.95, but when you finally drive out the bill is $800. If your car has any miles on it, particularly if over 75,000, you'll need more than strut inserts, and while the inserts are listed for a low price if you're charged $200 for springs and $187 for a top bearing, more for snubbers etc. Your $149.95 strut job is now $657 or more. Your car's apart, what can you do!

CALL US FIRST!

You can buy these items by the piece, in sets or in assemblies. May we suggest assemblies.

Assemblies are the easiest to change: just remove the entire assembly and replace.

If your steering is shimmying or shaking and giving you a hard time or your VW is rattling in the front end or clunking, we've got the solution for you. First check your tire pressure, then change your front struts. They're easy to change, only four bolts per strut, maybe an hour, 2 hours tops.

Here's How To Do It:

All you need is a 17mm socket, 17mm box wrench and a 13mm box wrench, that's it, no kidding.

Loosen the nuts holding the wheel on. Then raise the front end of the car so that you can get at the strut's bottom end. You'll also need to get at the top of the strut, so don't raise the car too high. Do not raise the car where the strut attaches to the lower control arm. Let the control arm fall to its full relaxed position and then put a block under it or wire it in position without compressing it. This will keep it from falling and stretching the brake line when the strut is removed. Take off the wheel.

On the bottom of the strut you'll find two 17mm bolts. The top bolt has an off-center attached washer (an eccentric washer) on it. This washer pushes against a shoulder on the strut to adjust the wheel's camber setting. So before you remove the bolts, mark the washer and strut with either a metal scribe, punches or white paint so you can match them up later.

Remove the nuts off the 17mm bolts first, then the washers and push through the bolts holding the strut to the control arm. Stick one bolt back through either hole. This will stop the control arm from falling when you take off the strut's top bolts. Now open the hood and remove the plastic cover on top of the strut by prying it off. You'll see two 13mm nuts and one large nut in the center (leave the large center nut alone). Take off the two 13mm nuts.

Pull out the lone bolt on the bottom holding the strut on and take the strut out. Carefully transfer the alignment mark you made on the old strut to the new one so the camber angles will be the same. Put the replacement strut in by aligning the two top bolts into the holes in the fender and put the nuts on. Torque the nuts. Twist and pull down the strut so that it aligns with the bottom holes. You may have to move the control arm for proper alignment. Put the 17mm bolts in (make sure the eccentric one is on top and that the washer is aligned with the mark you transferred form the old strut) and torque the nuts. Replace the brake line into the strut and replace your wheel. It's simple you're done!

If your tires show any abnormal wear (like on one side or the other) or you're putting new tires on, have the front end aligned (they'll automatically do this and charge you for it at a shop even if you don't need it.)